I came to Bali looking for relaxation. It wasn’t cheap to travel here, so I wanted to get some spiritual return on my investment. I chose to stay at Kayumanis in Ubud on the recommendation of a friend and he got it so very, very right.
Kayumanis means cinnamon in Indonesian (literally sweet wood) and the use of this noble spice is a theme that runs right through the resort – from the petite cinnamon biscuits that are placed in your room to satisfy a naughty midnight snack, to the pen made of the bark of the tree to crushed leaves offered at the spa. I was here for the spa and this one is perhaps one of the most beautifully positioned in – dare I say it – the world! It lies in the jungle-clad Ayung River gorge near Bali’s spiritually-charged Ubud with the sounds of rushing water to provide background music for the soul.
After my mandatory one day of rigorous sightseeing I needed to start relaxing and the spa was beckoning fast. I was soon under the spell of some hot stones and the long, strong strokes of a masseuse who knew just how to take years of tension away from my aching shoulder muscles. I have been in some spas in my time but nothing had prepared me for the Sweet Serenade treatment here. It all started out as I was accustomed; the cold towel on arrival, the scent of essential oils, a welcome drink of spicy leaf juice and a soothing foot bath. But, somewhere between the body scrub and the warm body wrap something strange and miraculous happened. I started seeing things. My eyes were closed yet I saw deep crimson shapes moving around a purple background only to fade away to be replaced moments later by different crimson shape. I remembered reading about the absinthe-inspired dreams of Van Gogh and thought that the leaf juice may have been having some surprising side effects. The truth is that after spending thousands of dollars on meditation and never getting this relaxed I had finally discovered the secret to emptying my mind, this treatment! Luckily the mind emptying happened when there was still an hour of massage plus the facial to come, so I had time to really revel in the epiphany. I don’t think I have ever felt quite as chilled out as I did leaving the spa for the final time.
If you are looking for privacy with the perfect level of attentiveness then this is definitely the place to come – despite my regular outings to the spa I hardly saw any other guests but I was always warmly greeted by the staff many of whom remembered my name. They are drawn from the local area and have an openness and warmth that can’t be manufactured or taught, it’s simply a natural byproduct of living a good life in a beautiful place. Kayumanis Ubud is one of the few destinations in this world where you can spend just a few days and still find a level of relaxation that is so elusive in your everyday life. It is a place where everything has been well thought through, allowing you to enjoy whatever your day brings without a care in the world. Bali is wonderfully rich in culture, Ubud is magical but Kayumanis is spellbinding. However long you wish to stay – just stay longer.